When Jaeger-LeCoultre revived the historic Polaris name in 2018, it redefined the modern sporty-chic watch with an entirely new line of timepieces conceived for everyday adventures. And now, in 2023, it elevates the Polaris Chronograph with two signature dials that showcase the artisanal skills housed within the Manufacture..
Anchored by the clean, modern lines of the case, the new Polaris Chronograph dials are bold and visually striking, thanks to the richness of their lacquered surfaces – one in deep blue that channels the elegant side of the Polaris character, the other in a warm grey – a new colour in Jaeger-LeCoultre’s portfolio – that speaks to its sportier side.
Complex in construction, the dial is composed of a central disc, a middle ring, to which the hour markers are applied, and an outer ring that is marked with the tachymeter scale. On both the central disc and the hours ring, the colour of the lacquer is graduated from light to dark, adding great visual depth to the dials. The lacquering of these two dial components is a lengthy and exacting artisanal process, with each layer of coating being manually applied. It begins with the application of a clear coat of varnish, followed by a layer of colour. The challenge lies in controlling both the shade and the gradient, so that the two sections match. This is followed by 35 coats of translucent lacquer, to add depth and richness. The process is completed by polishing the components to a bright mirror finish.
The layout of the new Polaris Chronograph dial is timeless and intuitive to read, featuring a central chronograph seconds hand to enable more precise reading of this key measurement. Balanced by the 30-minute counter at 3 o’clock, the sub-dial at 9 o’clock (in a notable change from its predecessor) now animates the dial with a running seconds display. The circular graining of these sub-dials adds contrast to the high gloss of the lacquered surfaces and the opaline finish of the outer ring.
Orange accents draw the eye to the key indications and add dynamism to the overall composition. Skeletonised hands allow greater visibility of the indications and, in keeping with the contemporary Polaris design codes, bold trapezoid-shaped indexes balance the fine detail of the chronograph displays. Luminescent coating on the indexes, numerals and the tips of the hands enhances legibility in all light conditions – an essential attribute for a sports watch.
The sapphire crystal case-back reveals the automatic movement, Calibre 761 – a quintessential example of Jaeger-LeCoultre’s approach to watchmaking that combines high performance with mechanical elegance. Powered by twin barrels, the fully integrated chronograph movement features a column-wheel chronograph mechanism with vertical clutch and offers a 65-hour power reserve.
The fine finishing includes blued screws and Côtes de Genève decoration on the baseplate as well as on the signature open-worked winding rotor bearing the ‘JL’ motif. The movement was designed, produced, finished and assembled within its own Manufacture at Le Sentier, in Switzerland’s Vallée de Joux.
